“Take but degree away,
Untune that string.
And, hark, what discord follows…”
– William Shakespeare, Troilus and Cressida
Tuesday morning on Carnaby Street. The early rain has cleared leaving a bright sky draped with torn remnants of cloud. Puddles gleam in the gutters, sending up effervescent vapour as the sun warms the asphalt and concrete. Reflections shimmer in the pools along the sidewalk: shopfronts and buildings bent and moulded into convex shapes and concave contours.
At this hour, the street is almost deserted. The shops are just opening and most of the people on the street are commuters heading to work, clutching their coffees and focused on their screens. It is a scene completely at odds with my imagined impression of Carnaby Street. I’d been prepared for bright, luminous colours, trippy clothes and swags of hipsters. Instead, Carnaby Street seems almost bland. The shops — Levis, Swatch, RayBan, Timberland, The North Face — are the same as any high street. Nothing lasts forever; all things must pass.
In the 1960s, Carnaby Street emerged as the pulsating heart of London’s cultural revolution. It was a beacon for a generation that yearned to escape the strictures of Post-war Britain: a symbol of the seismic shift in societal norms. Set down in the heart of Soho, this narrow street was transformed from a nondescript lane into a vibrant epicentre of fashion, music, and youth culture. It became a canvas upon which the new generation expressed its defiance against the rigid conventions of the post-war era.
The rise of Carnaby Street is inextricably linked to figures like Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood and John Stephen. Quant’s daring miniskirts challenged traditional notions of femininity and propriety, liberating women’s fashion from the constraints of the past. John Stephen, often hailed as the ‘King of Carnaby Street’, introduced affordable, stylish clothing that shattered the class barriers in fashion. His boutique became a temple of trendsetting styles, drawing in crowds of youngsters and fashionistas from across the globe.
The atmosphere of Carnaby Street during this era must have been electrifying. The air vibrated with the latest hits from The Rolling Stones, The Jimi Hendrix Experience and The Who. The experimental, progressive rock of the nascent band Pink Floyd along with established bands such as King Crimson and Yes floated from second-story windows along with the sweet smell of ganga. Each song sounded like a clarion call; defiant anthems of this new age.
These bands, with their innovative sounds and unconventional appearances, became the auditory soul of Carnaby Street. And keeping pace with the rock and roll vibe, fashion mirrored this rebellious spirit. Vibrant colours, psychedelic patterns, and unprecedented styles like bell bottoms and paisley shirts were the orders of the day, worn with an air of louche confidence that defied the drabness of the previous decade.
But Carnaby Street in the 1960s was more than a fashion hub. It was the physical manifestation of a cultural untuning. Established norms and expectations were being challenged, questioned, and boldly redefined by the young people of the day. The street became a microcosm of a broader societal transformation, a place where the excitement of change was palpable. In every boutique window, every chord of rock-n-roll, and in the very steps of its patrons, Carnaby Street echoed the sentiments of a generation set on reshaping the world in its vibrant image. Carnaby Street wasn’t just a street; it was a rebellion incarnate.
Fast forward to today, and I see reflections of that same spirit in today’s youth generation. They, too, are challenging established norms. But they are doing it through technology, social justice movements and climate change activism. As I look around modern Carnaby Street, it’s clear how it mirrors these contemporary attitudes, blending its historical roots with a new vibrancy: tolerant, inclusive, and environmentally aware. Take but degree away. Untune that string and hark what a discord follows.
This quote from Shakespeare’s play “Troilus and Cressida” perfectly captures the essence of generational shifts and conflicts. As I wander along this iconic street, I gradually focus beyond the seeming conformity and homogeneity of the shops and the outward passivity of the young people around me. As the true nature of the street comes into focus, it becomes a vivid symbol of these shifts, reflecting both the rebellious spirit of the 60s and the contemporary ethos where bigotry has no place.
In the 1960s, Carnaby Street became the stage for the ‘rude son’ of Shakespeare’s metaphor for change in Troilus and Cressida. The play, set during the Trojan War, explores the debate about what is essential in human life and what is merely existential. The youth of the mid to late sixties, much like the insolent child defying the father in the play, challenged the entrenched norms and values of society.
Historically, “The Establishment” reacted to these shifts with apprehension and often resistance. Mick Jagger famously went on television to confront the old guard and explain that youth didn’t represent a threat to an ordered society. The opposite was true. Sixties youth represented a change in step for British society and culture: a move away from the austerity and control of the post-war years to a lifestyle that epitomised the freedoms that World War II had been fought to preserve.
Back in the sixties, traditionalists viewed the changes distilled in the colour and action of Carnaby Street as a threat to societal order. Today, a similar dynamic is unfolding, as contemporary establishments grapple with rapid changes in technology and social norms.
On Carnaby Street, the echoes of the sixties revolution blend seamlessly with this modern pulse of innovation and progress. The street, once a symbol of radical change and youthful defiance, now resonates with a new generation’s aspirations and dreams. They, too, are reshaping the world, albeit in different hues and with different tools. The essence of Carnaby Street remains unchanged: it is a place of transformation, a crucible where each generation melds its voice into the chorus of history.
Just as the rebels of the 60s found their voice in the vibrant chaos of fashion and music, today’s youth carve their path through digital innovation and global consciousness. And Carnaby Street mirrors this evolution, from the psychedelic prints of the past to the sleek, eco-friendly designs — puffer jackets, sneakers, digital devices, vapes — of today. The manifestations of rebellion and innovation might have altered but the spirit of Carnaby Street as a beacon of change, a challenge to the status quo, and a symbol of freedom, endures.
The street, with its psychedelic past and dynamic present, is more than just a physical space. It is a symbol of resilience, creativity, and the unyielding desire to leave a mark on the world. In its reflections, I see not just the legacy of a bygone era but the promise of a future being written by a new generation, equally determined to make their voices heard. It is a melody of change that resonates across generations. Sid Barrett, Mary Quant, Brian Jones, Jimi Hendrix and even William Shakespeare would love it!
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