On the Buses

On the Buses

But the journey. The journey is still the same. The sense of moving through a landscape that is still, in some deep way, unfamiliar to me. The small thrill of stepping onto a bus and trusting it to take me somewhere I have never been; or back to a place I know well. That trust is easier now. The bus will not break down. The driver will not lose control. The windows will not fall out. It is safer. It is cleaner. It is, in almost every way, better. Continue reading On the Buses

Heat and Dust

Heat and Dust

On the overpasses, cars crawl through the mirage, each one a sealed bubble of air-conditioned defiance. But the city doesn’t care. The heat is indifferent, eternal. It radiates from the concrete, rises in waves from the road, presses down from above: a three-dimensional sauna of light and dust. Somewhere behind all that sun-glare, the desert waits, unchanged and unimpressed. Continue reading Heat and Dust

The Liberty Timbers

The Liberty Timbers

But it’s not one that a Jack Tar would recognise. Instead of oakham, gunpowder smoke, tobacco and rum, I can smell oak polish, high-end perfume, old wood, and new money. It’s a curious blend, like Chanel No.5 dabbed behind the ears of Admiral Nelson. Continue reading The Liberty Timbers

The Tower of Gaucín

The Tower of Gaucín

Climbing through the old gate, the heat is instant and enveloping. The stones radiate the morning’s stored warmth; lizards dart along the ramparts. I follow the rough path upward to the bell tower, where a single bronze bell hangs under a weathered brick arch. Continue reading The Tower of Gaucín